Sunday, November 21, 2010

Winter Home Prep

Winterizing Your Home
Preparing Your Home for Winter

By Elizabeth Weintraub, About.com Guide

The fall Equinox is a good time of year to start thinking about preparing your home for winter, because as temperatures begin to dip, your home will require maintenance to keep it in tip-top shape through the winter.

Autumn is invariably a prelude to falling winter temperatures, regardless of where you live. It might rain or snow or, as David Letterman says, "Fall is my favorite season in Los Angeles, watching the birds change color and fall from the trees." Did you know there is only one state in the United States where the temperatures have never dipped below zero? Give up? It's Hawaii.

Here are ten tips to help you prepare your home for winter:
1) Furnace Inspection

* Call an HVAC professional to inspect your furnace and clean ducts.
* Stock up on furnace filters and change them monthly.
* Consider switching out your thermostat for a programmable thermostat.
* If your home is heated by a hot-water radiator, bleed the valves by opening them slightly and when water appears, close them.
* Remove all flammable material from the area surrounding your furnace.

2) Get the Fireplace Ready

* Cap or screen the top of the chimney to keep out rodents and birds.
* If the chimney hasn't been cleaned for a while, call a chimney sweep to remove soot and creosote.
* Buy firewood or chop wood. Store it in a dry place away from the exterior of your home.
* Inspect the fireplace damper for proper opening and closing.
* Check the mortar between bricks and tuckpoint, if necessary.

3) Check the Exterior, Doors and Windows

* Inspect exterior for crevice cracks and exposed entry points around pipes; seal them.
* Use weatherstripping around doors to prevent cold air from entering the home and caulk windows.
* Replace cracked glass in windows and, if you end up replacing the entire window, prime and paint exposed wood.
* If your home has a basement, consider protecting its window wells by covering them with plastic shields.
* Switch out summer screens with glass replacements from storage. If you have storm windows, install them.

4) Inspect Roof, Gutters & Downspouts

* If your weather temperature will fall below 32 degrees in the winter, adding extra insulation to the attic will prevent warm air from creeping to your roof and causing ice dams.
* Check flashing to ensure water cannot enter the home.
* Replace worn roof shingles or tiles.
* Clean out the gutters and use a hose to spray water down the downspouts to clear away debris.
* Consider installing leaf guards on the gutters or extensions on the downspouts to direct water away from the home.

5) Service Weather-Specific Equipment

* Drain gas from lawnmowers.
* Service or tune-up snow blowers.
* Clean, dry and store summer gardening equipment.
* Sharpen ice choppers and buy bags of ice-melt / sand.

6) Check Foundations

* Rake away all debris and edible vegetation from the foundation.
* Seal up entry points to keep small animals from crawling under the house.
* Tuckpoint or seal foundation cracks. Mice can slip through space as thin as a dime.
* Inspect sill plates for dry rot or pest infestation.
* Secure crawlspace entrances.

7) Install Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

...* Buy extra smoke detector batteries...change them when daylight savings ends.
* Install a carbon monoxide detector...
* Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors to make sure they work.
* Buy a fire extinguisher or replace an extinguisher older than 10 years.

8) Prevent Plumbing Freezes

* Locate your water main in the event you need to shut it off in an emergency.
* Drain all garden hoses.
* Insulate exposed plumbing pipes.
* Drain air conditioner pipes and, if your AC has a water shut-off valve, turn it off.
* If you go on vacation, leave the heat on, set to at least 55 degrees.

9) Prepare Landscaping & Outdoor Surfaces

* Trim trees if branches hang too close to the house or electrical wires...
* Plant spring flower bulbs and lift bulbs that cannot winter over such as dahlias in areas where the ground freezes.
* Seal driveways, brick patios and wood decks.
* Move sensitive potted plants indoors or to a sheltered area...

10) Prepare an Emergency Kit

* Buy indoor candles and matches / lighter for use during a power shortage.
* Find the phone numbers for your utility companies and tape them near your phone...
* Buy a battery back-up to protect your computer and...electronic equipment.
* Store extra bottled water and non-perishable food supplies (including pet food..), blankets and a first-aid kit in a dry and easy-to-access location.
* Prepare an evacuation plan in the event of an emergency.

Source: http://homebuying.about.com/od/buyingahome/qt/92607_WinterHom.htm accessed November 21, 2010 @ 7:31a.m.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Lawn Tips for the Fall

Tip of the Month

Fall Lawn Care Tips

by Jarrod Krull, Yardcare.com Agronomist

While many homeowners look forward to less time behind their mower at the end of the summer, fall provides an opportunity to set the conditions that will give your lawn a head start come next spring. Cool-season lawns benefit the most from fall activities such as fertilization and aeration while moderate fertilization and weed control help increase spring vitality for warm-season grasses.

Fertilize Responsibly
Cool-season grasses benefit the most from fall fertilization, as the turf is busy storing energy during this time that will help the lawn over winter and spur spring growth. Dr. Van Cline, agronomist for The Toro Company, recommends applying two thirds of the annual nitrogen fertilizer requirement during the fall season for cool-season lawns.

The opposite is true for warm-season grasses, as they require greater quantities of nutrients during late spring and early summer when they are most actively growing. Cooler fall temperatures provide warm-season grasses the opportunity to increase root production while overall shoot and leaf development rates decline. While nitrogen fertilization is recommended for warm season grass in the fall, it should be limited to quantities that will keep the plant active, but not generate succulent growth that has the potential to foster winterkill.

Your local cooperative extensionist or a garden center expert can help provide you with the tools necessary...

Aeration stimulates root growth and improves nutrient uptake
Fall is the best time to aerate cool-season turf as the grass plants will quickly heal from the coring action of the aerator – especially with the help of fall fertilization and irrigation programs. Aeration allows oxygen, water, and nutrients to penetrate further into the soil, encouraging deeper root and reducing soil compaction that restricts root growth – especially during the hot summer months when healthy roots are needed to help cool-season grass survive stress conditions.

For warm-season turf, aeration is best performed in the late spring to early summer in conjunction with increased fertilizer application that help support its active warm weather growth habit.

One of the drawbacks from aeration is the production of cores that will litter your lawn. While the cores will break down over time, the use of a mulching mower will help break up the cores more quickly and provide a ‘topdressing’ for your lawn.

Some weeds are better controlled in the fall
Common, yet troublesome winter annual weeds such as henbit and chickweed germinate during the fall and overwinter as juvenile plants. By applying a post-emergent herbicide in the fall, winter annual weeds are more easily controlled and won’t have the chance to mature come springtime.

Likewise, perennial broadleaf weeds such as dandelion and clover will also have a flush of vegetative growth during periods of cooler temperatures. Controlling these weeds in the fall will help improve overall turf density while reducing spring weed populations.

Remember that not all herbicides are lawn-safe. Choose a herbicide that is effective against the types of weeds present in your lawn. The product label is your guide to effectiveness, application rate and timing and, most importantly, safe use and disposal guidelines.

Source: http://www.yardcare.com/tiparchive/fall_yardcare_tips.html, accessed Sept. 14, 2010 @ 7:08p.m.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

A little organization goes a long way

Getting Your Bathroom in Order...

* By Heather J. Paper

Everyone has a morning bathroom routine, and with some strategic space planning, it can be streamlined to make you even more efficient each a.m. (and let you sleep a few extra minutes, too)...consider creating specific task zones that can you save some steps and help get you out the door on time.

THE BIG PICTURE
(A few great tools)
Magnetic canisters keep bathroom essentials in one spot.
A small cabinet is perfect for organizing everyday items.
Decorative storage containers organize and add style.
Exhaust all storage options with a clever shower door organizer.

...good space planning is paramount. Like a kitchen with an efficient work triangle, a well-planned bath relies on the smart placement of fixtures — an area for grooming (the vanity), an area for bathing (the shower and/or tub), as well as the toilet...(each vanity should be equidistant from the tub and toilet). Don't presume, either, that all the essentials need to line the perimeter of the room. "Bathrooms that have 'dance floors' in the middle of them are a waste of space," adds Quinn. "Float the vanities or a gorgeous tub in the middle of the room rather than sticking everything against the walls."

FINE-TUNING TASK ZONES
...It's important to have everything you need for each task close at hand. At the vanity, for instance, "I like to put everything I use on a daily basis in one place: the medicine cabinet," says Seattle designer Rick Baye. "That way, there's never any question where anything is." Quinn adds that, beyond organization, there's a "neatness" factor to be considered as well. "A space will always look larger when the clutter on countertops is removed. I like to put old wooden boxes, or decorative mirrored and metal boxes, on the countertop. They're a great way to conveniently hide the clutter, especially if a client doesn't have a medicine cabinet or ample drawer space."

Instead of keeping towels and washcloths down the hall in a linen closet, add storage right in the bathing zone. Even a sliver of space can be devoted to built-in floor-to-ceiling shelves, allowing easy access to linens. But furniture is moving into the bathroom, too, so look for a handsome cabinet or, says Quinn, use an old armoire. Behind the closed doors of these storage pieces you can organize not only thick, thirsty towels, but also all kinds of soaps, bath salts and sponges...

DETAILS THAT WORK
Even if your bathroom isn't arranged into the ideal task zones, there are ways you can make it work more efficiently:

Use a two-tiered mobile cart, putting your favorite oils and soaps on the top level and towels down below. Then, at bath time, simply roll it over next to the tub. "There are many mobile pieces that can provide that little bit of extra storage in a bathroom and not take up too much space," says Quinn.

In a shared or family bath, boxes and bins are a great way to give each person his or her own space and keep them organized as well. Put the family member's name of the front of the basket or bin and there's never a question as to whose stuff is where. Most importantly, though, keep them close to the task at hand.

Another way to use containers, says Baye, is to devote each one to a specific purpose. "I like to use plastic, hinged-top boxes that you can see through," he says. "One box might be devoted to 'cutting,' including things like bandages, gauze, nail clippers and cuticle scissors, while another might be for 'dental care,' including floss, extra toothpaste and things like that."

Quinn also has a smart solution for small appliances. "I like to install plugs at the back of lined drawers," he says, "so curling irons and blow dryers can be plugged in, used and stored again without ever messing with the cords."

Source: http://www.hgtv.com/decorating/getting-your-bathroom-in-order/index.html, accessed August 1, 2010

Prepare your home for rolling into Fall

Fall Home Preparation

by Mary Ann Romans

Once you get through with all of the back to school work, it is time to start thinking about how you can prepare your home in the fall to make it more efficient and a lot more green. Typically, in most areas, when winter comes, we use more energy to keep our home comfortable. Let us reduce that dependence with some savvy, but easy, home preparation.

One of the best things that you can do for your home in the fall is to eliminate as many drafts as possible. Of course, there are the walls, especially those of the foundation to address, the attic and around windows and doors. But there are also some other hidden draft spots, such as your fireplace or chimney, around electrical outlets and light fixtures and the entrance for your dryer vent hose. Also make sure to take down window air conditioners and close the fireplace flue when not in use.

Speaking of fireplaces, they can actually rob your home of a good deal of heat. You can change this by fitting in a wood burning stove, use an electric fireplace insert or a direct vent natural gas insert.

Another spot that can use some insulation is your hot water heater. If you insulate the hot water pipes, then your heater will not have to work as hard at maintaining the hot temperature, and therefore, it will use less energy. Use pipe insulation and cover the first nine feet of the pipe leading from the hot water heater, as well as any exposed pipe.

There are plenty of other things you can improve or replace for the fall. Why not replace your toilet with a low flush model or at least add a brick or other weight to the tank to reduce your water usage. Low-flow shower heads can also reduce your water usage.

If you don't already have one, install a programmable thermostat
. This will keep your energy usage down while you are away from the home or, or while you are sleeping.

Source: http://green-living.families.com/blog/fall-home-preparation, accessed August 1, 2010 @ 10:30a.m.

Saturday, July 3, 2010

In the Nick of time...tax credit EXTENSION

Home tax-credit extension relieves tardy buyers

About 180,000 buyers needed the tax-credit extension, the National Association of Realtors estimated. A lot of the holdups came from the mortgage-approval process. Lenders were inundated with buyers rushing to close their sale and qualify for the tax credit.

By J.W. ELPHINSTONE

The Associated Press

NEW YORK — Homebuyers worried about closing their house purchases before the tax-credit cutoff can relax after the government extended the deadline.

Congress passed a measure that gives homebuyers an extra three months to finish qualifying for federal tax incentives that boosted home sales this spring. The House approved the measure this past Tuesday and the Senate approved it Wednesday night. President Obama signed it Friday morning

The legislation gives buyers until Sept. 30 to complete their purchases and qualify for tax credits of up to $8,000 for first-time buyers and $6,500 for existing owners who move. Under the original terms, buyers had until April 30 to get a signed sales contract and until June 30 to complete the sale.

The bill only allows people who already have signed contracts to finish at the later date. Nearly 3 million taxpayers claimed the tax credits through May 22 at a cost of more than $21 billion, according to the Treasury Department.

About 180,000 buyers needed the tax-credit extension, the National Association of Realtors estimated.

A lot of the holdups came from the mortgage-approval process. Lenders were inundated with buyers rushing to close their sale and qualify for the tax credit.

"It wasn't issues with qualifications or bad appraisals," Phipps said. "The overwhelming demand simply bogged down the system."

Phipps also noted that without the extension, some buyers would have walked away from their sales.

Some buyers put clauses in their contracts that let them out of the deal if they couldn't close before the June 30 deadline.

Matthew Morneault, 24, could have been one of them. A member of the Maine Air Force National Guard, Morneault is counting on the tax-credit money to make roof and patio repairs on the four-bedroom house he's buying in a short sale...

He has been ready to close on the $154,000 home in Bangor, Maine, for two months and was ready to write off the deal if he didn't close in time for the tax credit.

He is waiting for the seller's bank to provide documents to the title company to show the property is free of liens.

"The extension is making me stick it out a little longer," he said.

source: http://seattletimes.nwsource.com accessed 7/3/10

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Landscaping Lessons...

Landscape Help for Village Idiots
Rototilling, Pruning Tips for Spring
By David Beaulieu, About.com Guide

Garden Landscape
The elderly gentleman next door is a real fanatic about his landscaping. He landscapes all day, every day, spring, summer and fall. I'm convinced this old Yankee sprinkles plant fertilizer on his asparagus at mealtime, in lieu of salt! But he's full of landscaping tips for preparing the yard for spring. I became convinced of his wisdom one day as another March came to a close. April Fools' Day was looming large when I overheard a conversation between him (I'll call him "Landscaper") and some passersby sorely in need of landscaping tips (I'll call them the "Village Idiots"). The conversation that spring day between the Landscaper and the Village Idiots went something like this:


Village Idiots:
•The ground is thawed now, so we can begin rototilling to prepare the soil in our gardens, can't we?

Landscaper:
•Not so fast, you hasty Village Idiots! A rule of thumb for rototilling is to pick up a lump of soil, and squeeze it in your hand. If it is dry enough to fall apart slowly, then your gardens are ready for rototilling. Otherwise, it's too muddy, and you'll just end up spending all your time scraping mud off the tines of your machine while you're rototilling.


Village Idiots:
•Okay, we understand now. You can't rush Mother Nature, and she treats the impatient harshly. You're saying we really can't do anything to hurry along Mother Nature in the garden, right?

Landscaper:
•Wrong again, you Village Idiots! Refraining from haste doesn't mean refraining from work altogether. If you spread black plastic mulching sheets over the garden area to draw heat to it, you help the soil to warm up faster.


Village Idiots:
•We see you have your pruning shears out, old Landscaper. This must be a good time for pruning back all your shrubs?

Landscaper:
•Easy with the pruning, you Village Idiots! Let me give you a landscaping tip. Some flowering shrubs flower on last year's growth, not new growth. So pruning them now means no flowers later. Study your shrubs' growth habits before pruning them!

Village Idiots:
•Old Landscaper, considering your love of flowers, do you find it hard to wait for the flowers to come out, so that you can cut some and bring them in to cheer the house?

Landscaper:
•You Village Idiots, I do have flowers in my house, already. Forsythia branches can be cut in March and forced to bloom inside. Just stick them in water. But nothing could "force" you to become more savvy about landscaping, you hopeless Village Idiots.

...The conversation has now turned to mulching:

Village Idiots:
•We were smart last year. We spread a thick layer of mulch over all our perennial flower beds and bulb plantings, and now we won't have to pull weeds or spread mulch this year at all. The mulch is already in place, and the perennials and bulb plants will just push up through it.

Landscaper:
•You lazy Village Idiots! You should already have removed mulch from snowdrops and crocuses so the shoots aren't smothered beneath the mulch layer. Loosen the mulch around daffodils and tulips, but keep enough around the shoots to help protect them against cold, drying winds. Mulch should be removed from perennial beds only gradually, as the season progresses. Keep taking a peek under the mulch to stay abreast of what's happening. When the shoots start coming up, don't allow them to be smothered by the mulch.


Village Idiots:
•But at least we're cautious about mulching in our annual beds. We buy our annual plants around Memorial Day, then spread mulch all around them. Surely you can't fault us on that score?

Landscaper:
•Surely I can, you Village Idiots. By leaving your annual garden beds unattended until the end of May, you're practically inviting the weeds to come in and set up housekeeping! Mulch annual beds early; then simply brush the mulch aside while planting your annuals, replacing the mulch immediately after. That way, weeds never stand a chance to….

But before he could finish answering, a neighborhood cur trotted by. The old man yelled at the dog, chasing it off his property. At this turn of events, a murmur swept through the group of Village Idiots, and the expressions on their faces changed. The old man was curious as to what they were whispering about and drew closer to them. Still unable to discern the topic of their conversation, he assumed that they were being critical of him for chasing the dog away.

"You Village Idiots," he thundered, "when mowing season returns, I don't want to have to go out there with a pooper-scooper first, before I can begin mowing. Let that dog deliver his 'little presents' elsewhere!"

But one of the Village Idiots stepped forth at this point and calmed old Landscaper down, explaining, "Yes, we're aware of the problem. You see, all of us had already begun sprinkling ammonia along the perimeters of our lawns a week ago! The smell of ammonia is most unpleasant to passing dogs, and they tend to leave our lawns alone."

Hearing this, old Landscaper scratched his head with the tips of his fingers, looking down at the ground. Then he raised his eyes, a bemused look brightening his harsh features. "Well, I'll be..." he groaned, nodding his head in approval. "You can teach an old dog new tricks -- or at least some landscaping tips. And there's hope yet for you, you Village Idiots."

source: http://landscaping.about.com/cs/lazylandscaping/a/april_fools_2.htm

Monday, March 8, 2010

Plant now for Spring blooms

Winter Planting for Spring Blooms

Plant Spring Bulbs in Winter for Garden Color in Spring

Planting spring bulbs in winter will ensure colorful gardens in Spring. Choose the correct bulbs and select a suitable bulb planting area for best garden results.
When winter temperatures get closer it is difficult to arouse some enthusiasm for the following spring – but winters pass and winter is the time to consider what the garden will look like when the snow has melted and the frost is just a memory. Winter is the time to plant spring bulbs for glorious color in a few months time.


Getting Started with Spring Bulbs
When gardeners think of spring bulbs a few old favorites come to mind but before any bulbs are bought it is a good idea to search through some reputable garden catalogs for new names and varieties. Then it is time to start buying. There is a general rule that the bigger the bulb, the bigger the flower and this is true to each variety. Crocus and snowdrop bulbs are very small but selecting the biggest of these little bulbs will give bigger flowers...


Selecting a Suitable Bulb
Bulbs should be firm and of a reasonably uniform shape and color. If a bulb is soft, blotchy or squishy it should be rejected. When buying tiny bulbs it is not always possible to make such a thorough investigation of each bulb so be led by the appearance of the majority and the condition of the display and storage area in the shop or garden center. A final tip – always smell the bulbs before you buy. A scent of mold or mustiness will indicate a bad choice.


Planting Spring Bulbs
Some bulbs will grow in low temperatures similar to those found in U.S. zones 4-5, such as the common Snowdrop but the majority favor temperatures a little higher, zone 6+. Daffodils flourish in Florida and they also bloom in Europe from Belfast to Barcelona, especially the narcissus varieties.
Bulbs like crocuses, snowdrops and aconites will grow from 3 to 6 inches high so they should be planted at the front of a border. Hyacinths are slightly taller and then daffodils and tulips are the tallest in the general spring planting scheme so they should go at the back keeping a watch over the whole flowerbed... A simple guide for planting bulbs is to bury the bulb about three times its own length with the tip pointing upwards.

Alternative Bulb Planting Schemes
A flowerbed in the center of a lawn for example is the perfect place to display a single planting of tulips, the bolder the color the better and an ideal choice is a lily flowered ‘Burgundy’ tulip. Tulips also look fabulous when planted with other spring bulbs in an informal, almost meadow like setting – especially if accompanied by evergreen shrubs...

Source: Suite101: Winter Planting for Spring Blooms: Plant Spring Bulbs in Winter for Garden Color in Spring http://bulbs.suite101.com/article.cfm/winter_planting_for_spring_blooms#ixzz0heK5CKy3 accessed March 8, 2010

Home ownership can offer tax savings!

What You Can and Cannot Deduct
(Publication 530 - main content)

To deduct expenses of owning a home, you must file Form 1040 and itemize your deductions on Schedule A (Form 1040). If you itemize, you cannot take the standard deduction.
This section explains what expenses you can deduct as a homeowner. It also points out expenses that you cannot deduct. There are four primary discussions: real estate taxes, sales taxes, home mortgage interest, and mortgage insurance premiums. Generally, your real estate taxes, home mortgage interest, and mortgage insurance premiums are included in your house payment.
Your house payment. If you took out a mortgage (loan) to finance the purchase of your home, you probably have to make monthly house payments. Your house payment may include several costs of owning a home. The only costs you can deduct are real estate taxes actually paid to the taxing authority, interest that qualifies as home mortgage interest, and mortgage insurance premiums...

Some nondeductible expenses that may be included in your house payment include:

Fire or homeowner's insurance premiums, and
The amount applied to reduce the principal of the mortgage.
Minister's or military housing allowance. If you are a minister or a member of the uniformed services and receive a housing allowance that is not taxable, you still can deduct your real estate taxes and your home mortgage interest. You do not have to reduce your deductions by your nontaxable allowance.
Nondeductible payments. You cannot deduct any of the following items.
Insurance (other than mortgage insurance premiums), including fire and comprehensive coverage, and title insurance.
Wages you pay for domestic help.
Depreciation.
The cost of utilities, such as gas, electricity, or water.
Most settlement costs. See Settlement or closing costs under Cost as Basis, later, for more information.
Forfeited deposits, down payments, or earnest money.
Real Estate Taxes

Most state and local governments charge an annual tax on the value of real property. This is called a real estate tax. You can deduct the tax if it is based on the assessed value of the real property and the taxing authority charges a uniform rate on all property in its jurisdiction. The tax must be for the welfare of the general public and not be a payment for a special privilege granted or service rendered to you...

Deductible Real Estate Taxes

You can deduct real estate taxes imposed on you. You must have paid them either at settlement or closing, or to a taxing authority (either directly or through an escrow account) during the year. If you own a cooperative apartment, see Special Rules for Cooperatives, later.
Where to deduct real estate taxes. Enter the amount of your deductible real estate taxes on Schedule A (Form 1040), line 6.
Real estate taxes paid at settlement or closing. Real estate taxes are generally divided so that you and the seller each pay taxes for the part of the property tax year you owned the home. Your share of these taxes is fully deductible if you itemize your deductions.


source: http://www.irs.gov/publications/p530/ar02.html accessed March 8, 2010

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Sweets for your Sweet

Cherry brulee decadent and healthy dessert to serve for Valentine's
(CP) – 2 days ago
Treat your special Valentine to this decadent dessert. A little cherry juice goes a long way in this cream brulee and will add a punch of antioxidants as a bonus. Cherry Creme Brulee
550 ml (2 1/4 cups) heavy cream
75 ml (1/3 cup) tart cherry juice concentrate
6 egg yolks
120 ml (8 tbsp) sugar
30 to 45 ml (2 to 3 tbsp) sugar, for crust
In a saucepan, bring cream and cherry juice concentrate to a simmer.
In a heatproof bowl, beat together egg yolks and sugar for 1 minute.
Slowly pour cream into eggs while whisking. Pour mixture back into saucepan and heat on low until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes.
Pour mixture into 4 oven-safe ramekins set in a baking pan. Add enough water to baking pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake in a 150 C (300 F) for about 35 minutes until custard is set but still jiggly in centre.
Let cool in refrigerator for at least 2 hours.
To create the sugar crust, sprinkle sugar over each brulee and caramelize under oven boiler, salamander or use a cook's blowtorch.
Makes 4 servings.
Source: ChooseCherries.com
Copyright © 2010 The Canadian Press. All rights reserved.
Source: http://www.google.com/hostednews/canadianpress/article/ALeqM5iwFId51N0-pungihbuje8M5lbMGQ accessed February 13, 2010 8:23p.m.

Ice Dams on your mind?

Ice Dams and Attic Condensation

Two types of attic water damage are common in cold climates: ice dams and condensation of water vapor on cold surfaces in the attic.

Ice Dams
Ice dams sometimes occur on sloping roofs in climates with freezing temperatures. When the temperature in your attic is above freezing, it causes snow on the roof to melt and run down the sloping roof. When the snowmelt runs down the roof and hits the colder eaves, it refreezes.
If this cycle repeats over several days, the freezing snowmelt builds up and forms a dam of ice, behind which water ponds. The ponding water can back up under the roof covering and leak into the attic or along exterior walls.
The right weather conditions for ice dams is usually when outside air temperatures are in the low 20s (°F) for several days with several inches of snow on the roof.
Research shows keeping the attic air temperature below freezing when the outside air temperature is in the low 20s can reduce the occurrence of ice dams... Warm air from living spaces below penetrating into the attic is usually the culprit in the formation of ice dams.

Attic Condensation
Condensation of water vapor on cold surfaces in attics can cause attic wood products to rot... Condensation typically occurs when warm, moist air migrates into the attic from living spaces below.

Prevention
Prevent warm, moist air in living spaces from infiltrating into the attic with a good air barrier and appropriate water vapor control at the base of the attic.
Provide good attic ventilation to replace warm air in the attic with cold outside air.
Provide adequate attic insulation to reduce the transmission of heat into the attic from living spaces below.
Consult a professional...

What not to Do
Do not routinely remove snow from the roof. It will likely lead to shingle damage.
Do not attempt to "chip away" the ice of an ice dam. It will likely lead to shingle damage.
Do not install mechanical equipment or water heaters in attics, especially in cold climates.
Do not use salt or calcium chloride to melt snow on a roof. These chemicals are very corrosive and can shorten the life of metal gutters, downspouts and flashings...

If ice dams are causing water damage

...In order to avoid the same problem in the future, a qualified contractor should assess the amount of attic insulation and attic ventilation (especially around where the ice dam formed), and look for holes in the air barrier between the living spaces and the attic.
If you see water staining at an exterior wall or ceiling where there is snow on the roof above it, act quickly to avoid extensive damage.
Hire a contractor to carefully remove most of the snow from the roof above the ice dam...

Source: http://www.statefarm.com/learning/loss_prevent/learning_lossprevention_icedams.asp accessed February 13, 2010 8:10p.m.

Sunday, January 31, 2010

Energy effieciency could mean tax credits

As you prepare for filing your 2009 tax returns, I thought this might be helpful. It might even save you a few dollars!

"Consumer Energy Tax Incentives What the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act Means to You"

The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 extended many consumer tax incentives originally introduced in the Energy Policy Act of 2005 (EPACT) and amended in the Emergency Economic Stabilization Act of 2008 (P.L. 110-343).
See the summary of the energy tax incentives included in the Emergency Economic Stabilization Act of 2008.
...A tax credit is generally more valuable than an equivalent tax deduction because a tax credit reduces tax dollar-for-dollar, while a deduction only removes a percentage of the tax that is owed. Consumers can itemize purchases on their federal income tax form, which will lower the total amount of tax they owe the government.
Fuel-efficient vehicles and energy-efficient appliances and products provide many benefits such as better gas mileage –meaning lower gasoline costs, fewer emissions, lower energy bills, increased indoor comfort, and reduced air pollution.
In addition to federal tax incentives, some consumers will also be eligible for utility or state rebates, as well as state tax incentives for energy-efficient homes, vehicles and equipment. Each state’s energy office web site may have more information on specific state tax information.
Below is a summary of many of the tax credits available to consumers. Please see the ENERGY STAR® page on Federal Tax Credits for Energy Efficiency for more details on federal incentives and the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency (DSIRE) for information on federal, state, local, and utility incentives.

HOME ENERGY EFFICIENCY IMPROVEMENT TAX CREDITS
Consumers who purchase and install specific products, such as energy-efficient windows, insulation, doors, roofs, and heating and cooling equipment in existing homes can receive a tax credit for 30% of the cost, up to $1,500, for improvements "placed in service" starting January 1, 2009, through December 31, 2010. See EnergyStar.gov's Federal Tax Credits for Energy Efficiency for a complete summary of energy efficiency tax credits available to consumers.
RESIDENTIAL RENEWABLE ENERGY TAX CREDITSConsumers who install solar energy systems (including solar water heating and solar electric systems), small wind systems, geothermal heat pumps, and residential fuel cell and microturbine systems can receive a 30% tax credit for systems placed in service before December 31, 2016...

AUTOMOBILE TAX CREDITS
Hybrid Gas-Electric and Alternative Fuel VehiclesIndividuals and businesses who buy or lease a new hybrid gas-electric car or truck are eligible for an income tax credit for vehicles “placed in service” starting January 1, 2006, and purchased on or before December 31, 2010. The amount of the credit depends on the fuel economy, the weight of the vehicle, and whether the tax credit has been or is being phased out...
This tax credit will be phased out for each manufacturer once that company has sold 60,000 eligible vehicles. At that point, the tax credit for each company’s vehicles will be gradually reduced over the course 15 months. See the IRS's Summary of the Credit for Qualified Hybrid

source: http://www.energy.gov/taxbreaks.htm accessed January 31, 2010

Tax Credit running out...good time to buy.

$8000 Tax Credit Extended Through April 30, 2010
By: Diane Tuman, Zillow Content Manager November 6, 2009

In what has been urged as a must-have by real estate professionals and builders, the $8000 tax credit for first-time home buyers (previously due to expire Nov. 30), has been extended through April 30, 2010, according to the Associated Press. Not only has it been extended, but it has also been expanded to include more buyers.

Details on Tax Credit Extension:
$8000 tax credit for first-time homebuyers extended for buyers who sign a contract by April 30, 2010 (and who close by the end of June).
$6500 tax credit offered to homebuyers who have lived in their current residence at least five years and who want to “trade up” (buy a new primary residence).
Couples earning as much as $225,000 a year and individuals earning up to $125,000 would qualify (up from $75,000 for individuals and $150,000 for couples).
Tax credit not applicable for those buying homes worth more than $800,000.
Those who sell their new home or stop using it as their main residence within three years would have to repay the credit.
Will the Tax Credit Extension Help?
According to a recent survey Zillow conducted through Harris Interactive, nearly one in five (18%) prospective first-time home buyers said extending the $8,000 tax credit would be the primary influence on their decision to buy a home before the end of 2010, potentially stimulating an additional 334,000 home sales. The caveat here is the survey asked first-time homebuyers if they would purchase a home prior to the end of 2010; this bill will only go through April 2010, not the end of 2010 and it involves a different type of buyer, as well...

source: http://www.zillow.com/blog/8000-tax-credit-extended-through-april-30-2010/2009/11/06/ accessed January 31, 2010.

Tax Credit running out...good time to buy.

$8000 Tax Credit Extended Through April 30, 2010
By: Diane Tuman, Zillow Content Manager November 6, 2009

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In what has been urged as a must-have by real estate professionals and builders, the $8000 tax credit for first-time home buyers (previously due to expire Nov. 30), has been extended through April 30, 2010, according to the Associated Press. Not only has it been extended, but it has also been expanded to include more buyers.
Details on Tax Credit Extension:
$8000 tax credit for first-time homebuyers extended for buyers who sign a contract by April 30, 2010 (and who close by the end of June).
$6500 tax credit offered to homebuyers who have lived in their current residence at least five years and who want to “trade up” (buy a new primary residence).
Couples earning as much as $225,000 a year and individuals earning up to $125,000 would qualify (up from $75,000 for individuals and $150,000 for couples).
Tax credit not applicable for those buying homes worth more than $800,000.
Those who sell their new home or stop using it as their main residence within three years would have to repay the credit.
Will the Tax Credit Extension Help?
According to a recent survey Zillow conducted through Harris Interactive, nearly one in five (18%) prospective first-time home buyers said extending the $8,000 tax credit would be the primary influence on their decision to buy a home before the end of 2010, potentially stimulating an additional 334,000 home sales. The caveat here is the survey asked first-time homebuyers if they would purchase a home prior to the end of 2010; this bill will only go through April 2010, not the end of 2010 and it involves a different type of buyer, as well.
The cost for the tax credit extension is estimated to be $10 billion and opinions vary on whether it will actually help the economy or not. One writer provides 5 reasons the U.S. should stop homebuyer perks.

source: http://www.zillow.com/blog/8000-tax-credit-extended-through-april-30-2010/2009/11/06/ accessed January 31, 2010.